Archive:Skaha Oct 12-14 2007

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View from Skaha Lake of Skaha Bluffs, Penticton, BC.

Introduction

Main article: Skaha

Skaha is a rock climbing area located near Penticton, BC, in the Okanagan Valley. It is generally pretty dry, making it a common destination for times of the year when Squamish is a little soggy. The VOC usually runs a trip there around Halloween. Skaha has climbs at all levels, in both the traditional and sport styles. There is also a lot of top-roping possibilities for beginners.

Date

October 12th - 14th, 2007

Directions

Directions from Vancouver to Skaha (Penticton, BC). Notice the two possible routes.

Directions from UBC to Skaha Bluffs (Penticton, BC) with Google Maps via Hwy 3

From Vancouver take the #1 east to Hope. At Hope, you have two options: 1) Taking the #5 Coquihalla saves 40 minutes but costs a $10 toll. 2) Taking #3 is adviseable because we're all poor students. Take #3 east towards Princeton and keep going past Princeton to Keremeos. At Keremeos take #3A north towards Pentiction, joining the #97 north for the final few kilometers along Skaha Lake into Penticton. Estimated time: 6 hours by the longer but toll-less route.

To reach the bluffs, take Valleyview Road south to the very end at the Braeside Farm parking lot. There is a user fee, $10 per car. Please pay because we may not have access for much longer (parking lot is on private land that is being sold in the near future). (Notice the green arrow on the map below)

Camping

I don't like to pay for camping, so usually we wing it and try to find free places. The local high school works well. There are other places that I know of which I can find once I get there. If you feel lazy and rich, there are many pay camp sites.

Climbing

Location of Skaha Bluffs in Penticton, BC (Green Arrow)

This is one of the best sport climbing destinations in BC and has lots to offer for trad, sport, and top roping. Here's a short list.

Beginner-friendly walls

  • Fern Gully (5.6 to 5.9, don't know about top-rope access),
  • Go Anywhere (5.7 to 5.9, with access for top-roping),
  • Far Away (5.6 to 5.10b with access for top-roping),
  • Red Tail Wall lower tier (large with 5.8 to 5.10a, most have access for top-roping)
  • Another Buttress (large with 5.6 to 5.9, access for top-roping)
  • Claim It All Wall (Mostly 5.10 sport, with 5.8 and 5.9 also, lots of routes)
  • Doctor's Wall (Slighty overhanging wall, with 5.11+ sport)
  • The Fortress (lots of climbs in 5.10-5.11 grade)

Fun Routes

  • The Dream 5.9 gear (Redtail, The Turret)
  • The Raven and the Bear 5.9 sport (Raven's Castle)
  • Plum Line 5.9 sport (East Fortress)
  • Ready to Strike 5.10a gear (Diamondback)
  • Grassy Glades 5.10a gear (Grassy Glades)
  • Assholes of August 5.9 gear (Red Tail Upper)
  • Brilliant Pebbles 5.10c sport (Grassy Glades)
  • Double Exposure 5.8 gear (East Portal)


Cars

If you have space in your car, please post the spots. Passengers pay for gas. If you have a rope and/or rack, please indicate so that we can try and even out people with gear into cars with less gear.
Note: Passengers, contact your drivers a few days in advance to determine meeting locations/times. Contact info can be found on Member List. The onus is not on drivers to track down all their passengers.

  • Steve Lerch (1.5 spots) [2 Sport ropes, sport rack]{Time of Departure from Vancouver: 4:00 - Time of Departure from Skaha: Sunday afternoon]
  1. Tobi and Dave (rope, sport racks)


  • Ben SP (3.5 spots) [Everything for Gear]{12 Friday UBC - Sunday afternoon]
  1. Frances Sharpe


Carless People

For those who need a ride.

  • Name {Gear)
  1. Eddie Rothschild
  2. Nathan Brown (rope, small trad rack)